Let’s start with the movement. The new a lange sohne saxonia moonphase is powered by the new L086.5, which is essentially the same thing as the L086.1 used in the Saxonia Automatic (another fave), with the addition of the moon-phase complication. One thing that Lange does so well is the moon-phase complication. Not only is it incredibly attractive to look at, with the moon-disc’s light blue background and beautiful gold stars (don’t you just love a good moon-phase? I do), but it’s also incredibly accurate. Lange has mastered, and I mean mastered, moon-phase accuracy and has developed a movement that you won’t need to adjust for 122.6 years, and it is 99.998% accurate. Which is pretty damn accurate and great news for people who hate setting their watch. (Just for reference, an ordinary moon-phase watch is typically off by one day every two years, seven-and-a-half months, so this kind of moon-phase accuracy is probably more about bragging rights than practical benefits. But still, if you can’t get unnecessary precision out of a German watch, where can you get it?)
Okay, so we know it tells good time, how does it look? Amazing. I prefer the white gold; try as I might to love pink or yellow-gold watches, I always find myself going back to steel and white gold (can’t say I have much experience with a platinum watch, but I wouldn’t object to wearing one). There is something so soft and lustrous about white gold and this Saxonia Moon Phase is no different. The case is 40 mm, which, especially with the introduction of some smaller watches lately, has become a little larger for a simpler Lange, and it definitely wears that way. If I had one criticism of this watch it would be that I would rather it be in 38 mm and slightly less thick (the case currently measures 9.8 mm thick, which is pretty hefty). But, as we know, it’s all relative really, because my 38 mm is another person’s 42 mm.
The dial layout is a dream to look at. The hands and indexes are the familiar slim yet substantial design that we know so well from the other Saxonia models. Then there is the characteristic Lange double date aperture just below 12 o’clock, which isn’t for everyone, but I personally love having a date on my watch (more often than not I need to know what the date is). The moon-phase aperture that I discussed earlier is further accented by a running seconds hand – flawlessly done, like everything else on the dial.
So, what makes this watch worth it (besides its overwhelming beauty)? Well, it retails for $29,000, which in real talk is a lot of money, BUT when you compare it to the $25,800 price tag on the Saxonia Automatic, it is clear that Lange is re-evaluating their pricing strategy (also see this new $15,000 Saxonia Thin in 37 mm). And thank god, because let’s get real, watch prices have been getting a little out of hand lately.
And finally, how does it wear on the wrist? Awesome. Like really, really awesome. I think I actually heard birds sing when I put it on, but that could also be the residual jet-lag from our week in London. But in all seriousness, if you are looking to splurge and want a watch that is a new classic (and you are tired of hearing about that damn Rolex Daytona – just kidding, I love that watch too), this watch is a clear winner.
The new a lange sohne saxonia moonphase follows the concept introduced by the Manual, Automatic and Dual-Time editions and adds some more complexity to the display, with a large date (one of the brand’s hallmarks) and a display of the age of the moon. For me, this watch is three things: balanced, elegant, technical, which leads us to look at three main aspects of this watch: its dial,