vacheron constantin overseas ultra-thin

The Overseas line by Vacheron Constantin is on the move. It is stepping out of the shadows cast by the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Capitalizing on a groundswell of positivity, Vacheron Constantin is bringing us more options to choose from.

Ok, don’t tell my wife about the new blue dial Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Last year in May, my wife and I attended a Havana Club and Vacheron Constantin party, in Whitehall, London. Sipping Airmail and Dark ‘n’ Stormy cocktails certainly lowered our inhibitions. Before long, we were inquiring about beautiful vacheron constantin overseas ultra-thin watches that may have (definitely) been beyond our means. Luckily, the helpful staff members were more than happy to provide information on the collection.
For me, it was the steel overseas with a blue dial. The stark steel case is offset by a simple date window and of layers upon layers of blue lacquer. My wife was enticed by the perpetual calendar model in a 41.5mm pink gold case. With a matching bracelet and silver dial, it had a sharp and clean look. Somehow — by complete chance — we were color-matched to our choices.
The Perp Cal UT was the latest model to be adorned with an integrated 18-carat pink gold bracelet. That arrived in 2019. The reoccurring Maltese cross pattern tapers uniquely to the folding clasp with comfort adjustment. Previously, the watch was only pared with quick release leather or rubber strap options. I feel the bracelet is an intrinsic element of the Overseas range that harks back to the VC Ref. 222 designed by Jorg Hysek. Thankfully, Vacheron also delivers the Overseas with two additional leather and rubber straps, each with an individual pin buckle.
The gradual and deliberate release cycle of the Overseas collection has led to the standout elements of our preferences to coalesce into the watch you see here — the new vacheron constantin overseas ultra-thin with blue dial.
Not settling for a uniform finish, the new Overseas employs a satin, sunburst pattern on the dial. Additionally, the sub-dials for the day, month, and date have radial snailing. Furthermore, the repetitive minute-track on the flange offers a third, more velvety finish that draws your eyes to the central indications. Helping to keep an eye on the tides, is the half-moon aperture that tracks the phases of the moon with a pink gold disc. The gold hands and indices are filled with luminescent material. Consequently, this luxurious sports watch performs admirably in low light situations.
The general layout is clear and well-proportioned. But it is not without criticism. The 48-month sub-dial is a bit busy in my opinion. Each 12-month cycle is displayed within 1-quarter of the sub-dial with the fourth quarter doubling up as a leap-year indicator. Also, A light blue text for the leap year is further enhanced with the “L” symbol. While the month is advanced less frequently, the squeezed layout seems to sacrifice legibility for the sake of not including a separate leap year indicator. A minor gripe in an otherwise perfect package.
Caliber 1120 QPSQ powers the watch. Thankfully, Vacheron put it on display. An exhibition case back provides a perfect view of this masterpiece. A 22-carat rotor fills the view of the Poinçon de Genève sealed movement that certifies it is manufactured within the Canton of Geneva.
For those wishing to have an uninhibited view from the dial and rotor, Vacheron also introduces the vacheron constantin overseas ultra-thin. The open-worked dial certainly demonstrates an extreme level of craft, trimming away metal while still maintaining structural rigidity. Furthermore, the rotor is also skeletonized to provide an unimpeded view of the 4.05mm Ultra-Thin movement. The brushed and polished surfaces of the Overseas’ exclusive design wonderfully frame the white and anthracite dial with touches of blue.
Will we ever see a slim stainless steel Overseas? Possibly not. The Ultra-Thin models from Vacheron Constantin tend to only be presented in precious metals. Partly, because of the refined complexity of the slim movement deserving an alluring case. But also, the increased mass of gold contributes to the “reassuringly heavy” factor. Especially necessary when the volume of metal is skimmed away for a slim profile.
The new Overseas collection by Vacheron Constantin, introduced this year at the SIHH, ticks all the right boxes. The watch’ design is pure, inspired, the finish is exquisite, and overall it’s desirable and luxurious… It is actually difficult to find flaws here. Whether we talk about the normal 3-hander, the Chronograph or the Ultra-Thin edition; when we got to see these new models we are very impressed. There’s one version that we didn’t show to you, yet, and this is the flagship one: the vacheron constantin overseas ultra-thin. This watch does bring a question to the table: is such a refined movement with perpetual calendar complication useful and relevant in a sport-oriented watch? Is it similar to a 633 bhp twin-turbo W12 engine in a delicate Bentley Continental GT Speed? Let’s just enjoy the beauty of it, please!
You’re probably already quite aware of the new Overseas collection by Vacheron Constantin, as it received a rather impressive coverage from the specialised press. Saying that most of us were impressed would be an understatement. Whether we look at the normal 3-hander, the Chronograph or the Ultra-Thin edition, all of them are very beautiful and desirable, although we have to admit that the charm of the Overseas Ultra-Thin is overwhelming. In terms of design, it is a success. There’s a strong link with the original sports-luxury concept of the Vacheron Constantin 222. It also includes all the codes of the brand in a bold but also delicate manner.

In terms of movements, the new Overseas collection is also impressive. All watches in the collection come with the Geneva Hallmark, and the 3-hander and the chronograph feature new and technologically advanced in-house calibres. Finally, in terms of finish, it is just exquisite. The bracelet alone, with multiple finishings and even inward angles sums up the attention to detail that Vacheron Constantin has for a watch. And we’re not talking about a dress watch, but one that is intended to be a sporty watch. The collection has strong arguments to fight against its competition: the Patek Nautilus on one side and the AP Royal Oak on the other side.
Here is the last model of the new Overseas collection, which we haven’t covered yet, here on Monochrome-Watches. A version that can be seen as the flagship of the collection and, at the same time, it was the least expected edition, simply because of its delicate, luxurious and complicated movement; something that might not be the first idea you have of a sports watch. If you look at the competition, Patek Philippe (which is known for its complicated watches) for instance, don’t have a QP in the Nautilus. They offer gold editions, they have a dual-time chronograph and an annual calendar… but no QP. Audemars Piguet on the other hand do offer highly complicated models in the Royal Oak collection – there’s a QP and even a Grande Complication (minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and QP). Who’s right in the concept? Maybe none of them. Or all of them. Maybe the best idea is to just enjoy the beauty of the watch and its complex movement. And this is the case with the vacheron constantin overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton.

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